You’ve officially made the smarter, smellier, and surprisingly satisfying decision to turn your food scraps into plant party fuel instead of letting them sulk in a landfill somewhere. You’re not just composting — you’re composting with style. Mother Earth would high-five you if she had hands.
But before we dive in, let’s address the squirming, slightly slimy elephant in the room: Yes, you’re now in the business of poop. Specifically, worm poop. Don’t panic — it’s classier than it sounds. We just can’t go around calling you a Professional Poo Maker (although that does look pretty great on a business card). No, no — the correct, science-y, dinner party-safe term is:
Vermicomposting.
(Very official. Very Latin. Very “I wear biodegradable boots and I vote.”)
So, what exactly is Vermicomposting?
Glad you asked, compost captain.
It’s the magical, slightly wiggly process where specially chosen worms (the Beyoncé and Jay-Z of the worm world) munch through your kitchen scraps and turn them into nutrient-rich, garden-loving, black gold. Yes, worm poo is basically the Tesla of soil amendments — high performance, low emissions, and your plants will absolutely drool over it (in a chlorophyll kind of way).
By following the instructions in this delightfully non-boring guide, you’ll set up your very own 24/7 worm workforce. These guys don’t sleep, don’t unionize, and work for scraps. Literally. In return, you’ll get rich, friable, gorgeous compost that makes your garden bloom like it’s on plant steroids — the legal kind.
Oh, and bonus: If you’re into fishing, you can grow your own wriggly little bait buddies. That’s right — free worms, every angler’s dream. It’s like printing money, but slimier.
How cool is that!
Now, if you’re feeling a little nervous about this whole “worm overlord” thing, don’t worry. Totally normal. You’re basically starting a new tiny civilization — it’s a big responsibility, but with significantly less paperwork than a mortgage.
The good news? It’s actually a lot easier than you think.
This guide is packed full of tips, tricks, and Dad-joke-level encouragement to help you become a Garden Fork-Wielding, Worm-Whispering Master Vermicomposter.
Alright, Worm Wrangler-in-Training…
You’re about to embark on a step-by-step journey that’s easier to follow than IKEA instructions (and with 100% fewer leftover screws). This glorious guide is packed with helpful pictures and short, sweet explanations — because let’s be honest, no one has time for a 400-page thesis on worm poop. We’re here for clarity, laughs, and soil success.
By the end of this guide, you’ll be able to walk up and look your worm bin dead in the eye (well, metaphorically — it doesn’t have eyes), and proudly declare:
“I am a Soil Savant. I know things. I grow things. I… have worms.”
Want to go full Worm Mogul?
We’ve got you. Our website is brimming with bonus goodies, extra tips, and genius ideas to take your worm game from “hobby” to “side hustle with squishy profits.”
Yes — your wriggly workforce might just end up paying part of your grocery bill. You’re basically the Elon Musk of vermiculture. Minus the Mars thing. And the Twitter drama.
Now, before we wriggle into Step 1…
Let’s set some expectations: vermicomposting isn’t exactly a “one size fits all” operation. There are a few sneaky variables that can influence your success, like:
Environmental conditions (worms do not enjoy sauna-level heat, FYI)
So, if your first attempt isn’t an instant success — no worries! You’re not failing; you’re composting courageously.
Worm farming is a learning curve, not a race. Everyone picks things up at their own pace, and let’s face it, you’re already ahead of 99% of people just by knowing the word vermicomposting.
One of the best things about worms (besides their relentless work ethic and complete lack of judgment) is that they’re forgiving. Forget to feed them for a few days? They’ll shrug. Accidentally toss in something a bit “funky”? They’ll probably still eat it. Try that with a houseplant.
So I encourage you to:
Tinker
Observe
Get your hands dirty
Channel your inner compost wizard
And above all… find what works best for you.
Now, roll up your sleeves, prepare to embrace the squelch, and let’s dive into Step 1.
Chris
Step 1.
House Hunting for Worms (on a Budget)
These days, there are some seriously swanky worm farm setups out there. We’re talking sleek, stylish, Instagram-worthy towers of composting glory that look like they were designed by Apple and smell like slightly warm broccoli.
Some of them are absolute engineering masterpieces — they work like a charm, look like modern art, and come with price tags that whisper, “This is why your bank account is crying.”
But let’s be real for a moment…
Unless your goal is to impress the neighbours with your high-end worm penthouse suite, you don’t need all the bells, whistles, and worm jacuzzis. You’re here to compost, not to remortgage your house to do it.
That’s why this project is all about keeping things deliciously simple.
Simple = fewer headaches. Simple = fewer weird parts you lose under the couch. Simple = more time admiring worms and less time decoding an instruction manual that looks like a Dead Sea Scroll.
Because let’s face it — anyone can overcomplicate things.
But you? You’re going to embrace the ancient art of..
Not Fixing What Ain’t Broke
So, what’s our weapon of choice in this noble composting crusade?
Behold: The Humble Plastic Tub.
Yes, the same kind of tub you might use to store Christmas decorations, hide snacks from your kids, or transport laundry you have no intention of folding.
But not just any plastic tub. We want a tub with some guts. A tub with grit. A tub that doesn’t crack under pressure (unlike me during tax season).
Here’s what we’re looking for in our wormy bachelor pad:
Heavy-duty plastic – Because once you fill it with soil, food scraps, and a few thousand wrigglers, that thing’s gonna weigh more than your guilt after skipping leg day.
Rectangular shape – Why? Because our little worm friends are epigeic, which is a fancy way of saying “We party on the surface, not deep underground like some uncivilized mole people.” A wide tub gives them room to stretch out and groove.
60 to 100 litres – I use 100L tubs myself because I’ve got a hungry family and enough banana peels to build a slip hazard lawsuit. But 60L will do the job just fine for most beginners.
But wait — there’s more!
This tub system isn’t just great for keeping worms happy. It’s also secretly training you in the mystical arts of:
Feed management (how much is too much?)
Substrate quality (what exactly is a “substrate” anyway?)
Moisture control (wet enough for worms, but not for mosquito breeding. You’re not running a swamp.)
It’s also great for kids. Worm farming is weirdly fascinating to little humans. They can peek in, dig around (gently!), and learn that not everything on the planet needs batteries to be amazing. Just supervise them — we don’t want Timmy turning your worm farm into a mud pie production facility.
And if you don’t already have a tub lying around (check your garage or the pile of “I’ll deal with it later” in your laundry), these are super easy to find online or at your local hardware store. Cheap, cheerful, and ridiculously portable — perfect for when you suddenly decide to move your worm empire from the back patio to the garage because it’s raining and your worms deserve better.
A Cautionary Tale of Worm Ambition
(aka: That Time I Accidentally Became a Worm Tycoon)
Let me take you back to a simpler time.
I started with one tub. Just one. Cute. Manageable. Innocent. I said, “This is all I need. One tub. That’s it.”
But then… a thought crept in. “Wouldn’t a second tub be kinda handy?”
And like every slippery slope before it — from eating just one chip to watching one episode on Netflix — it escalated fast.
Two tubs. Then three. Four.
Suddenly, I’m standing in my garage, surrounded by 20+ bins of writhing worm society, whispering to myself like a composting mad scientist:
“I am the Worm King now.”
And that’s when things got serious.
I went full wormpreneur. I started selling compost worms, bait worms, and luxurious worm castings to fellow garden nerds, backyard farmers, and that one guy who really loves freshwater fishing and now calls me his “bait dealer.”
Now, don’t get me wrong — I’m not suggesting you sprint headfirst down this same wormhole (unless, of course, you want to). Running a full-blown vermiculture operation is incredibly rewarding… and also a bit of a full-time, squelchy commitment. But it does go to show you just how addictive this hobby can get.
Worm Biz Euphoria is real.
Side effects include: uncontrollable tub multiplication, an emotional attachment to soil moisture, and spontaneous Latin worm species name recitation at dinner parties.
If you ever catch yourself eyeing your neighbour’s compost heap with mild envy — don’t panic. You’re not alone. And should you decide to take things to the next level, I’ve put together some fantastic resources to help you on your glorious, squishy road to vermiculture entrepreneurship.
But Before We Continue…
Let’s talk about something that comes up a lot in worm-farming how-to videos:
The Double Tub System (Dramatic music plays)
You’ve probably seen this trick floating around online:
“Drill holes in the bottom of one tub, stack it inside another, and catch all that lovely worm juice dripping out the bottom!”
Sounds clever, right?
Except… if your worm farm is leaking like a toddler with a juice box, something’s off. A well-maintained worm farm shouldn’t need a drip tray. If it’s wetter than a wrung-out sponge, you’ve crossed into swamp territory.
After years of testing, tweaking, and tinkering with all kinds of systems (yes, I have played with the fancy stuff), I can still confidently say:
One good-quality tub is your best bet.
Especially if you’re just getting started or teaching curious little humans who will 100% want to name the worms and possibly knit them hats.
“But… Won’t They Escape?”
Ah yes, the classic concern.
Rest assured, your worms aren’t plotting a prison break. If you’ve got the right food, moisture, temperature, and bedding in place, those wriggly wonders won’t want to leave. Their tub is basically a five-star spa retreat with an all-you-can-eat buffet.
Still nervous? No problem. There are other setups out there, like zip-up Continuous Flow Through (CFT) systems, which look like camping gear for worms and work really well too — especially if the idea of a rogue worm on your kitchen floor sends you into a spiral.
Worm Husbandry 101
Here’s the important bit: when you keep worms in a tub, you’re not just feeding scraps to some mindless wrigglers — you’re officially practicing worm husbandry.
Fancy, huh?
The species we use — those epigeic legends — naturally hang out in the topsoil, leaf litter, and other “decaying but delicious” surface materials. Your job, as their benevolent overlord, is to recreate that environment inside their tub by doing the following…
Keep things moist (but not soggy)
Feed them the good stuff (no spicy food, Karen)
Give them bedding that feels like home (no silk sheets required)
Do that, and they’ll reward you with the black gold of the garden world — and maybe, just maybe, a new obsession that’ll take over your garage as well as your heart.
Step 2.
The Ideal Worm Pad: Location, Location, Location!
(Because even worms have standards, okay?)
Believe it or not, your worms prefer a similar climate to us. Not too hot. Not too cold. Just that perfect “Ahhh, this is nice” temperature range that makes you want to put on stretchy pants and snack on leftovers.
That said — while your worms probably won’t ask for a scented candle and Netflix, they do appreciate a comfy living situation. So let’s chat about where to park your new worm B&B.
The species we’re working with are pretty chill — literally and figuratively. They’re not divas. They’re not demanding. They don’t need mood lighting or background jazz. BUT… they do draw the line at extremes.
So here’s the golden rule:
Keep your worm tub out of direct weather.
Think:
Shaded patios
Undercover outdoor nooks
Garages (heavy duty shelves are great!)
Indoors — if your housemates don’t object to 1,000+ roommates
Now, you might be thinking: “Indoors?! Like… inside my actual house?!”
Yes, my friend. It’s not only possible — it’s been done by brave pioneers before you. Worms make surprisingly low-maintenance house guests. They’re quiet. They don’t shed. They won’t steal your Wi-Fi. And if you’re running your setup properly, they don’t even smell. (Unlike Uncle Gary.)
Basically, you want to avoid the following wormy no-go zones:
Full sun (because worms do not tan — they sizzle)
Frosty zones (wormsicles are a tragedy)
Anywhere they’re going to get drenched like they’re in a rom-com rain scene
The good news is — as long as they’re not being roasted, frozen, or drowned, your worm squad is going to do just fine. They’re hardy little troopers. They won’t complain if you don’t fluff their bedding daily or bring them sparkling mineral water. Just give them a space that’s sheltered and steady, and they’ll get on with their delicious decomposition duties like pros.
To sum up: If you wouldn’t want to sit outside there for a few hours in your undies, it’s probably not ideal for your worms either.
Now let’s move on and make your compost crew feel right at home!
Step 3.
Worm Bedding 101 (Carbon / Browns)
Because Even Worms Like a Comfy Mattress
Alright, compost captain, it’s time to get your worm hotel ready — and no, we’re not just tossing them into a bucket and yelling “Good luck!”
See, worms aren’t savages. They like a bit of luxury. Soft bedding. Temperature control. Mood lighting. (Okay, maybe not that last one.) But what they really need is an ideal balance of two key ingredients: carbon and nitrogen.
Think of it like this:
Carbon = The cozy memory-foam mattress. (AKA “browns” — like shredded newspaper, cardboard, aged straw, coconut coir, or dead leaves.)
Nitrogen = The tasty buffet. (“Greens” — like food scraps and other organic goodies we’ll talk more about soon.)
The carbon bedding is the real MVP here. It gives your worms a soft, stable home, keeps smells under control, balances moisture, and helps your worm farm stay more “spa” and less “swamp.”
So What’s the Best Bedding?
Glad you asked, dear soil sorcerer.
We love:
Shredded newspaper (the boring news works best — worms aren’t into gossip columns)
Plain cardboard (bonus points if it once held pizza — but without the grease!)
Coconut coir (because worms love the tropical vibe)
Dried leaves (nature’s original bean bag)
Aged straw (the worm equivalent of a weighted blanket)
If you don’t have any finished compost or worm castings to kickstart your ecosystem, don’t panic. You’re not being judged. (Yet.)
Just tear up some cardboard, soak it overnight, squeeze it out till it feels like a wrung-out sponge, and boom — five-star worm bedding, served fresh.
Got a paper shredder that eats cardboard? Even better. That thing’s about to earn its keep. Soak those strips and you’ve got worm luxury on tap.
*Pro Tip: Don’t feel like mashing soggy paper with your bare hands? Get yourself a garden auger attachment for your drill. It’s like a kitchen mixer but for dirt. Also very satisfying and a great way to confuse your neighbours.
Fluff It Real Good
Once your worm farm is up and running, you can give the bedding a gentle fluff with a garden fork every now and then. (Gentle. You’re not making salad here.)
Why? Because in a confined space, oxygen is your best friend. A quick fluff helps circulate air, keeps things fresh, and lets you peek in to see what your little composting crew is up to.
Some folks say not to disturb the worm ecosystem at all — which is cute in theory. But when you’re farming worms in a plastic tub and not the rainforest floor, a little controlled chaos is totally okay. Just don’t go full excavation mode.
New Bedding? Only When Needed.
You don’t have to add fresh bedding every single time you feed them — unless your worms are living like royalty and demolishing everything you throw in. If there’s still plenty of nice, soft carbon-rich bedding in there, you can just pull back some of the old material, drop the food in the opposite corner from your last feeding (because balance), and cover it all back up like you’re tucking in a burrito.
We usually add about a 5cm layer of fresh bedding when things are looking a little munched-through. This also helps your worm crew escape the heat that naturally builds during the mesophilic composting stage — basically the worm version of a toasty sauna.
*Quick Tip: We love shredding plain brown cardboard (including toilet paper rolls — yes, they finally have a second life!) through our office shredder. It breaks down like a dream, soaks up any oozing food juices (yum), and keeps your worm farm from becoming a soggy anaerobic soup of sadness.
Next up, we’ll chat food — and no, your worms aren’t picky, but they do have their preferences. Let’s make sure you’re not tossing in anything that’ll earn you a wormy side-eye..
Step 4.
Food (Nitrogen / Greens)
Okey dokey, compost compadre — let’s talk food. Because while your worms do technically eat their bedding (it’s like living in an edible beanbag), what we’re doing here is composting. And composting, like any good dinner party, is all about balance.
Specifically, the balance between:
Carbon = The dry, fibrous “browns” (bedding materials like cardboard and shredded paper).
Nitrogen — aka your worms’ version of protein powder — helps power their growth and break down organic matter efficiently. But too much of it without enough carbon? And your worm farm can turn into a putrid, smelly swamp that even the most adventurous worm wouldn’t RSVP to.
So, moderation is key and as with toddlers, houseplants, and TikTok usage — too much of a good thing can turn messy fast.
So, What Counts as “Nitrogen” Food?
You’re looking for soft, moist organic matter that breaks down quickly and doesn’t smell like doom when decomposing. Ideal options include:
Fruit & veggie scraps (banana peels, apple cores, carrot ends — all the usual suspects)
Green plant trimmings (not your lawn clippings unless they’re dried out a bit — trust me)
Avoid meat, dairy, oily stuff, or anything spicy. Your worms aren’t training for an episode of Hot Ones.
If you’re feeling a little bit flash and want to impress your worms with five-star dining, you can invest in one of those flashy machines that grinds your scraps into gourmet mush. It’ll definitely speed things up in the breakdown department—but honestly, it’s not essential unless you’ve got cash to splash and your bank account isn’t already curled up in the foetal position crying, “Please, for the love of worms, stop spending!”
Feeding Styles: The Pocket vs. The Shuffle
There are two main methods to feed your worm crew in a system like this, and both work just fine. Choose whichever fits your vibe — or switch it up when you’re feeling rebellious.
🥄 1. The Pocket Feeding Method
Think of this as hiding little Easter eggs around your worm farm. You dig small holes (or “pockets”), drop in some food scraps, cover them back over with bedding, and let the worms find the buffet.
Why it works:
Keeps odors down
Gives worms freedom to snack or chill as they please
Feels a bit like you’re running a gourmet speakeasy for soil dwellers
↔️ 2. The Horizontal Migration Method (My Personal Favourite)
This one’s like slowly shifting a worm population from one side of town to the other. You feed one side of your tub, then next time, you feed the opposite side. The worms follow the food like tiny, squishy zombies (but much cuter).
Why it works:
Super easy to manage
Encourages even distribution of castings
Makes it a breeze to harvest when the time comes — because the worms naturally migrate away from the finished side
Once your bin fills up over time, you can harvest one side of your bin for that glorious black gold and screen out any worms and cocoons (optional). You then add bedding to the empty side with some food and cover over again by backfilling with some of the existing material left on the opposite side. You’re officially in the cycle now, my friend.
*Important Rule of Thumb: Especially in a new system, never feed more than ⅓ of your bin at a time. The microbes need time to build up — like a good sourdough starter or a new gym habit.
How to Actually Feed Your Worms
Now that you’ve picked your feeding style, here’s how to feed without turning your worm farm into a food fight:
Place your food scraps on top of the bedding (or in your pocket/hole).
Cover it well with bedding material — this keeps smells down and flies away.
Wait until the food is completely broken down before feeding the same area again.
No leftovers? That’s a good sign. You’ve got a healthy, active worm crew doing their thing.
*Quick Reminder: Even though worms do ingest the food, they’re actually going after the microbes that live on the food. So don’t panic if things aren’t vanishing overnight — they’re just letting nature do its thing first. Like preheating the oven before baking a cake. This will help prevent the problematic issues that usually arise from overfeeding.
Hot Stuff: Do You Really Need to Pre-Cook Your Compost?
Now, if you’re the cautious type — the kind of person who triple-checks the stove is off or alphabetises the spice rack — you might be wondering about this thing called thermophilic pre-composting.
Sounds intense, right? Like something you’d need a lab coat and safety goggles for.
But all it really means is giving your compost a quick “hot phase” — letting it heat up to high temps before feeding it to your worms. This helps kill off unwanted seeds, harmful pathogens, and any mystery microbes that might be loitering around. It’s kind of like pasteurising milk… except with banana peels and broccoli stems.
In commercial vermiculture setups, this process is strongly encouraged — and sometimes even mandatory — because when you’re producing worm castings at scale, quality control matters.
But Do You Need to Worry About It?
Short answer: Nope. Longer answer: Not unless you really want to nerd out.
For your humble home system, thermophilic pre-composting is totally optional. You can skip the hot phase and let your worms handle the breakdown buffet themselves.
At worst, you might get the odd seed sprouting in your castings, which is actually kind of cool — it’s like your compost is saying, “Hey look! I’m alive!” And if a few worms or their baby cocoons hitch a ride to your veggie patch? Even better. They’ll just keep doing their good work out in the garden like underground superheroes.
So unless you’re entering your worm castings in the county fair or launching a boutique vermicompost empire, there’s no need to overthink it. Let the worms do their thing. You’ll be amazed how forgiving — and frankly unbothered — they are by the whole process.
*Quick Tip… If you have 200g of worms (approx. 1000 worms), they’ll consume about 200g of food per week. If a seed sprouts (not uncommon) in your worm farm, simply pull it up and place it on top so it can begin breaking down… or you can plant it in a pot to see what you get!
Step 5.
Buffer / Grit
Worms: The Tiny Chickens of the Soil World
Believe it or not, your worms are packing some serious digestive hardware. They may not cluck or peck, but inside their squishy little bodies they’ve got a pharynx, a crop, and even a gizzard — just like a chicken. That’s right. Your worms are basically featherless, beakless micro-poultry… with better manners.
When your worms chow down on that tasty, broken-down compost buffet, they use grit (like crushed eggshells) to help grind it up in their gizzard. Then, like tiny alchemists, they release calcium from their calciferous gland to coat the acidic material and neutralise it before sending it along to their intestinal processing plant.
Translation? These little legends are self-buffering compost machines — but they could still use a hand now and then.
Buffer Me Up, Baby
To keep things balanced and prevent your worm farm from turning into a sour soup, it’s a good idea to sprinkle a bit of pH buffer on top of the food now and then. Think of it like adding a touch of baking soda to spaghetti sauce — it calms the acid and keeps the household happy (in this case, your worm household).
I personally use finely crushed eggshells. They’re free, organic, worm-safe, and hey — you’re diverting even more waste from landfill. That’s a composting win-win.
A Lime Primer (Not the Fruit Kind)
If eggshells aren’t your jam, you can also use worm-friendly Garden Lime or Dolomite Lime as your buffer.
⚠️ Just a heads-up:
Dolomite Lime contains magnesium, which is okay for your worm farm, but not so ideal for hard soils if you’re planning to use the castings in your garden.
Hydrated Lime (aka Builders’ Lime, Slaked Lime, or “Wormpocalypse Powder”) is a big, fat NOPE. Why? Because it’s highly alkaline (we’re talking ~12.4 pH), and it can straight-up torch your worms. We’re talking chemical burns, mass squirm-outs, the whole tragic Shakespearean drama.
So remember: if it’s meant for bricks, not broccoli, keep it far away from your worm farm.
Step 6.
Cover the Food
Once you’ve tossed in your delicious worm dinner (aka food scraps) and sprinkled on a bit of buffer magic (eggshells, lime, or both if you’re feeling fancy), the next step is simple: cover it up.
No, we’re not hiding the evidence like it’s a dodgy takeaway container at the back of the fridge — we’re creating a cozy, smell-free, pest-repelling worm buffet. Just grab a handful of bedding and gently cover the food. This keeps flies away, cuts down on any “eau de compost” and gives your worms some privacy while they eat (they’re shy little things).
Bubble Wrap: Not Just for Popping
Now here’s a fun little hack: cover the top of your worm farm with bubble wrap — bubbles down. Why? The little air pockets let in oxygen (which worms love), help retain moisture (also a win), and provide a bit of bonus insulation. Plus, it makes your worm farm look like it’s wearing a tiny space blanket, which is objectively adorable.
If you don’t have bubble wrap, no stress. Damp newspaper works just as well — just make sure to keep it moist. Unlike bubble wrap, the paper can dry out over time and start flaking like a forgotten croissant. But hey, it’s also worm food, so it all balances out in the end.
Moisture Matters
Worms don’t like things too dry or too soggy — they’re the Goldilocks of the composting world. Ideally, your bedding should feel like a wrung-out sponge or laundry fresh from the spin cycle. If it feels more like an overcooked biscuit, mist it lightly with a spray bottle. No flooding needed — we’re aiming for “moist,” not “mudslide.”
Usually, your food scraps bring enough moisture to the party, but if you’re in a dry climate or using a lot of cardboard bedding, that misting bottle will be your new best mate.
Quick Tip: Worm GPS
Running multiple bins? Lost track of where you fed last? No worries — drop a marker! I like to use a bit of newspaper, or even a paper towel right on top of the last feeding zone. Just make sure it’s dry so it stands out.
Bonus: Newspaper and paper towels will eventually get munched on too, so when your marker starts to disappear, it’s feeding time again — nature’s reminder system.
To Lid or Not to Lid? That Is the (Wormy) Question
Here’s the deal with lids: you probably don’t need one. Worms love oxygen, and a sealed tub can quickly turn into a sweaty, low-air dungeon. That’s when the escape attempts begin — yes, your worms will literally climb the walls and try to bust out Shawshank-style if conditions aren’t ideal.
If you really must put a lid on it (maybe you’ve got curious pets or kids), just make sure to drill plenty of holes for airflow. Think “Swiss cheese,” not “Tupperware tomb.”
So… bedding, food, buffer, cover… and that’s all there is to it.
Step 7.
Adding Your Worms
What Sort of Worms Should You Invite to This Underground Dinner Party?
An excellent query — and far more important than it sounds. After all, not all worms are created equal. Some like to burrow deep into the earth and avoid the spotlight. Others, like our composting champions, are more extroverted (by worm standards) and like to hang out near the surface, where all the tasty rotting veggies are.
These surface-loving types are known as epigeic worms — which is just a fancy science term that means “they live on or just below the surface of the soil.” They’re not tunneling deep underground like your classic earthworm (those guys are more into soil conditioning than food scraps). Nope, these are the party animals of the worm world — the ones who want to live fast, breed faster, and turn garbage into black gold.
Now, you’ve probably heard the term “red wigglers” tossed around like confetti in a composting forum. Sounds fun, right? It is — but also kind of vague. “Red wigglers” is more of a nickname than a species, kind of like calling all dogs “good boys.”
So let’s get specific…
The Usual Suspects
Eisenia fetida
AKA: The classic red wiggler, the OG compost king. Known for being resilient, hungry, and basically the Labrador of the worm world — friendly, hard-working, and up for anything.
Eisenia fetida andrei
Close cousin to the above, and nearly indistinguishable unless you’re some sort of worm taxonomist (which, if you are — hello and welcome). Just as efficient, just as wiggly, and just as eager to turn your scraps into soil magic.
Perionyx excavatus / spenceralia (commonly known as Indian Blue)
Often described as the Ferrari of composting worms — sleek, fast, and a little sensitive. These guys process food lightning-fast but can be a touch dramatic if conditions aren’t just right. Not for the faint of heart, but incredibly efficient when treated well.
Eisenia hortensis
AKA: The European Nightcrawler. Slightly larger, a bit slower, but great for deeper bins and double-duty as superb bait for your next fishing trip. They’re the reliable, burly cousins of the composting scene.
Mixing It Up
Many worm farms actually contain a mixed species population, especially over time. So don’t stress too much about building a pureblood worm aristocracy — they’re not picky about roommates and species diversity plays an important role in a successful worm farm like this.
As long as you’re using epigeic composting worms, giving them a nice carbon-rich bed, feeding them scraps in moderation, and keeping things moist-but-not-soaked — they’ll get to work and make you proud.
To locate your closest supplier of fresh lively compost worms please click here… (link available soon)
Harvest Time
Black Gold and Sausage Science
Alrighty — if you’ve made it this far, congratulations! You’ve officially entered the worm-whisperer league. And now comes the moment you’ve been patiently waiting for: the harvest. This is when your little wriggly workforce rewards you with a tub full of rich, dark, fluffy, and delightfully earthy vermicompost — also known in gardening circles as “black gold,” and in worm circles as “their entire life’s work.”
Although not entirely necessary for a home worm farm like this, you can also screen out your freshly harvested worm castings using a basic garden soil sifter, which helps remove most worms, cocoons and larger material that hasn’t fully broken down yet, leaving beautifully textured castings as the result.
Ideally, what you’re after is a crumbly, soft, friable compost that you can pick up with your hand, gently squeeze into a ball (or, if you’re feeling fancy, a little soil sausage), and watch as it easily crumbles back into a fluffy heap with the press of your thumb. It’s like testing playdough — if that playdough could grow tomatoes and save the planet.
And the smell? Oh, chef’s kiss. That rich, forest-floor aroma is thanks to a group of superstar microbes called actinomycetes — funky little fungi-like bacteria that help break everything down during aerobic decomposition. Think of them as the aromatherapists of your worm farm, making everything smell pleasantly earthy instead of “bin juice with regrets.”
What Can You Do With All This Wormy Goodness?
So now that you’ve got a pile of this glorious cast-off castings, what can you do with it?
Oh, so much:
Mix it into your garden beds for a fertility boost worthy of garden envy.
Add it to potting soil to give your houseplants the VIP treatment.
Tuck a handful around the root zone when planting or transplanting.
Brew it into a worm casting extract or go full mad scientist and create an Activated Aerated Worm Tea (AACT) to stretch your castings further and deliver a microbial wake-up call to your soil.
Seriously, this stuff is like kombucha for your garden — alive, nutrient-rich, and slightly magical.
But Wait… What About Leachate?
Let’s clear up a little composting confusion here, because not all brown liquids are created equal. Some folks (bless their hearts) still refer to leachate — that liquid that dribbles out the bottom of your worm farm — as “worm tea.”
Spoiler alert: it’s not.
✅ Worm Tea / Extract = made from actual vermicompost, lovingly brewed to unlock its full microbial and nutrient power.
❌ Leachate = mystery juice. It’s what happens when your bin gets too soggy and the excess moisture drains out. It might contain nutrients… but it might also contain anaerobic nasties. Proceed with caution.
Think of it like coffee: Tea/extract is a freshly brewed espresso with crema on top. Leachate is the old drip tray liquid at the bottom of a coffee machine. Just… no.
Fun Science Bit (Because Worms Are Basically Plant Personal Trainers)
Turns out, high-quality vermicompost doesn’t just feed your plants — it coaches them.
Studies suggest it can help support the production of key plant hormones like auxin, gibberellin, cytokinin, ethylene, abscisic acid, and jasmonates. Don’t worry if those sound like a bunch of Marvel villains — they’re actually plant-friendly compounds that help with growth, stress response, and overall botanical awesomeness.
That last one, jasmonic acid, is especially cool. It helps your plants become the Bruce Willis of the backyard — activating natural defences, healing wounds, and kicking pests where it hurts. All thanks to those tireless worms you’ve been feeding apple cores and eggshells.
To Wrap It Up…
You’ve made magic from food scraps, created a thriving ecosystem in a tub, and harvested a substance that’s basically garden rocket fuel. Give yourself a pat on the back — and maybe give your worms a quiet nod of respect.
How to Keep Your Worm Farm from Turning into an Accidental Crime Scene…
Let’s wrap this party up with a few bonus nuggets of wormy wisdom, shall we? These are the kinds of tips that’ll help keep your worm farm from turning into an unholy mess of smells, slime, and sorrow.
💩 1. Pet Poo: Just… No.
We love our furry companions, but their poop? That’s a whole different ecosystem of microbial madness — and not in a good way. So please, do not feed pet manure to your worm farm unless your goal is to create a bacterial cocktail that’ll make even your worms pack up and leave.
If you’re super keen to compost pet poop (hey, no judgement), set up a separate system well away from anything edible — maybe near that ugly ornamental shrub you never liked anyway.
🌡️ 2. The Worm Death Trifecta: Heat, Wet, and Too Much Dinner
Most worm deaths are completely avoidable. The top killers?
Overfeeding (aka “death by buffet”),
Excess moisture (too soggy = too sorry),
And heat (because nobody wants to be slow-cooked in a plastic tub).
So, keep your worm farm in a cool, shaded spot, feed in moderation, and remember — just because your worms can eat a truckload of banana peels doesn’t mean they should.
🧀 3. Meat & Dairy: Technically Edible, Practically a Bad Idea
Yes, worms can technically consume meat and dairy… but doing so turns your lovely worm farm into a stinky, vermin-riddled trash rave. If you’ve ever left a piece of cheese in your car on a hot day, you know the kind of horror we’re talking about. Avoid unless you want to attract every rat, raccoon, and rogue possum in your postcode.
💧 4. Moisture Matters: Worms Breathe Through Their Skin
Worms don’t have lungs. (Imagine that nightmare.) Instead, they absorb oxygen directly through their skin via diffusion, which means they need to stay moist to stay alive.
Too dry = suffocation. Too wet = drowning. Too Goldilocks = just right.
Keep your bedding as damp as a wrung-out sponge. That’s the sweet spot.
👻 5. Phantom Feeding: The Ghost Meal That Preps the Party
When starting a new worm farm, resist the urge to dump in yesterday’s dinner scraps right away. Instead, feed it tiny amounts (what we call phantom feeding) for the first week. This gives helpful microbes time to arrive, multiply, and start breaking stuff down. Then add your worms.
Think of it like seasoning a new pan — you’re building the flavour base. Except instead of steak, you’re prepping a buffet for a thousand hungry squirmers.
☣️ 6. Protein Poisoning: The Gut-Busting, Gas-Releasing Horror Show
Okay, so here’s the slightly nerdy (but important!) science bit:
If you overfeed your worm farm with nitrogen-rich foods, things get messy. Like, “burst intestine” messy. This can cause a worm condition charmingly known in the vermiculture world as “protein poisoning” — or the far more terrifying “string of pearls” effect.
That’s when the build-up of gases like ammonia and alcohol inside the worm’s gut causes it to rupture. Brutal, right?
So go easy on the feed, load up on bedding (carbon), and always sprinkle in a little calcium buffer (like eggshells or garden lime) to keep the pH balanced. Your worms will thank you by not exploding.
🦠 7. Leftovers, Microbes then Worms
Surprise twist: worms don’t actually go after your food scraps directly. Instead, they slurp up broken down substrate and feast on the microbial buffet growing on those scraps. Microscopic protozoa are basically worm caviar and where they derive their nutrition from.
The food breaks down, microbes multiply, and then the worms roll in like a crowd at a Sunday brunch buffet. So really, you’re not just feeding the worms — you’re feeding the party planners (microbes), who invite the worms once the hors d’oeuvres are ready.
More on that here, available in our website’s resources section — because who doesn’t love a worm-themed academic deep dive?
👁️ 8. If You Wouldn’t Rub It on Your Eyeball, Don’t Feed It to Your Worms
Worms have super sensitive skin. So if you’re unsure about whether something’s safe to add, here’s the golden rule:
Ask yourself, “Would I want to rub this on my eyeball?”
If the answer is anything other than an enthusiastic yes… chuck it in the compost pile instead.
🍍 9. Pineapple: Nature’s Tiny Assassin
Let’s talk about pineapple. Delicious? Yes. Refreshing? Absolutely. But for worms? Potentially a slow-burning nightmare.
Why? Because pineapple contains bromelain, an enzyme that literally eats protein. It’s used in meat tenderisers and even some medicines. Ever feel that weird tingle in your mouth after eating fresh pineapple? That’s bromelain trying to eat you.
Luckily, your stomach has acids and enzymes that fight back. Worms? Not so much. No stomach acid, no mercy. Just soft bodies being gently digested by tropical fruit.
Pineapple in a worm farm = Jones Town for Worms. Be careful and consider pre-composting it to be sure.
The Final Wiggle of Wisdom
A worm farm is a delicate, bustling ecosystem. It’s not just worms and scraps — it’s microbes, moisture, pH balance, and a whole lot of tiny invisible processes working together like the world’s smallest, slimiest jazz band.
Moderation is your best friend. So is carbon. So is asking yourself: “Would this make my eyeball cry?”
